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Chapter 8

Wave modelling

CHAPTER
COORDINATORS
Lotfi Aouf and Gabriel Diaz-Hernandez
CHAPTER
AUTHORS
Alexander Babanin, Jean Bidlot, Joanna Staneva, and Andy Saulter

8.3 Input data, available sources, data handling, and model pre-processing

8.3.1 Bathymetry and geometry

Any global ocean wave OOFS needs accurate bathymetry data (see Section 4.2.4 for information about sources of bathymetric data). For systems downscaled towards the coastal/harbour zone, it is recommended a detailed bathymetry with resolution grid between 5 and 20 m.

Some solutions and models developed along the ocean wave OOFS strategy also need a topography (DEM). Main beach topographies, artificial structure sections, and elevations are recommended, with resolution grid below 5 m. In addition, vertical datum reference should be known and used to integrate all the different bathymetric, sections, topography references, along with sea level time series.

8.3.2 Forcing fields

Deep-water wave OOFS commonly need the following forcing met-ocean variables:

  • Wind maps;
  • Pressure maps;
  • Ice coverage maps. 

Shallow water / coastal / downscaled wave OOFS commonly need the following forcing met-ocean variables (generally obtained from the previous deep-water module or other hindcast/forecast global providers):

  • Wave spectra in the form of:
    • Integrated variables (Hm0, Tp, Dir);
    • N-modal integrated variables (i.e. 2 SWELL and 1 SEA);
    • Wave spectral real forms if available;
  • Sea level time series (both meteorological and astronomical tides);
  • Mid to high-resolution wind maps;
  • Free-surface elevation time series.

8.3.3 Observations

Observations are used as the main source for validation and calibration. The following observations are required.

For deep-water approach:

  • Satellite observations of Hm0, Tp and Dir;
  • Directional wave spectra definition (buoy).

For shallow-water approach:

  • Directional wave spectra definition (buoy);
  • Pressure gauge time series (burst with more than 20 minute length);
  • Non-directional wave buoy;
  • Wave overtopping measurements if available (non-intrusive camera deployment).

8.3.4 Pre-processing and definition of the numerical problem

Modern ocean wave OOFS uses a numerical model strategy to simulate the generation and propagation of the main phenomena in ocean (deep water) and coastal regions (shallow water). These numerical codes commonly contain three main elements: i) pre-process; ii) mathematical solver; and iii) post-process.

The first step takes place before the model execution and it is included in the pre-processing stage. Within this stage, the following sub-parts should be accomplished:

  • Definition of the computational domain geometry where the equations will be applied and solved. This area is commonly discretized as cells, control volumes, or elements (depending on the solver-type), and all of them conform to a grid domain.
  • Integration and adaptation of bathymetry data with the generated mesh (this is relevant for an adequate physical representation of the variables and for the stability of the model).

In general, accuracy increases with a greater number of cells but a longer computational time will be required. The choice will depend on the computer power available, on the type of architectural scope, and on the method to be used (for example, a hybrid approach could help to minimise the CPU time required). In general, the balance CPU-cost / physical definition can be tackled with the use of non-uniform meshes that have their nodes in the regions of special interest or where high variations of the physics properties take place.

Recently developed numerical wave models have incorporated self-adaptive meshes. That means that the mesh automatically adjusts its resolution (according to some tolerance criteria / physical mesh design defined by the user).

8.3.5 Boundary and initial conditions

Boundary conditions are the forcing values on the perimeters of the computational domain needed by any wave numerical model. In some cases, in the vicinity of any other body or another model incorporated in the domain.

Initial conditions are commonly the values of water waves that define a sea-state simulation (commonly with 1-hour frequency rate data for regional OOFS).

The following recommendations should be considered:

  • Select an input forcing of the model (boundary conditions), adapt the formats, and assimilate the input data to a form that can be used later by the solver equations (data normalisation stage). Note to establish correct sea levels and DATUM elevations.
  • Define any symmetry and cyclic boundary conditions at the perimeter boundaries.
  • Define any open boundary conditions that are used to freely radiate water waves through infinite.
  • For wave reflection models, define each individual reflection coefficient to be taken into account.
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